Chef Hoyoung Kim is the owner and head chef of Jua, a Michelin-starred restaurant, and Moono, both located in New York City. Previously, he dedicated eight remarkable years to Jungsik, a two Michelin-starred restaurant, where he rose from a line cook to executive chef.
Chef Kim is an alumnus of the prestigious Ecole Ferrandi in Paris, France. During his time in Paris, he also had the privilege of working with Chef Pascal Barbot at L’Astrance, a three-Michelin-starred restaurant. As the supplier for his newest restaurant Moono, Kim'C Market learned a lot more about the values he pursue and wanted to share them with our readers.
When and why did you decide to become a chef?
I started cooking naturally when I entered Korea Culinary Arts Science High School, and my culinary journey has continued ever since. Making others happy brings me joy, and being a chef perfectly embodies that for me.
How would you describe your overall cooking philosophy?
The most important aspects of my cooking are the taste (seasoning), temperature, and doneness (cuisson) of the food. I prefer simple dishes, and I believe that when these three elements are perfectly balanced, even simple dishes can leave a lasting impression.
How would you describe Moono? What led you to open Moono?
Moono is pronounced ‘mu-no’ in Korean for simplicity. The name means ‘a passage for exchange with the outside world,’ reflecting my hope that it will serve as a bridge between New York and Korean culture. The first generation of Korean immigrants operated many restaurants called ‘Hoe-gwan’ (meeting halls), but most of these have now become specialized restaurants like Korean BBQ and Soondubu (soft tofu). I wanted to create a modern meeting hall and opened Moono, introducing a unique category of Korean cuisine that didn’t yet exist in New York.
We are curious to know as an owner chef of restaurants what challenges you have faced and how you overcome them.
We opened Jua just a month before the pandemic hit. We had to downsize our team and continue operations with a minimal staff, focusing on deliveries and setting up outdoor tables. Challenges are always present. Yesterday wasn’t easy, and neither will today or tomorrow be. Whenever I face difficulties, I focus even more on the food and service. I believe that if I put my heart into preparing for even just one guest tonight, eventually that one will become a hundred.
How do you find inspiration for your cooking or recipe development?
In the past, I traveled to different regions and countries for culinary inspiration. Now, I seek inspiration from within myself. I aim to create food that reflects my identity, following my own path rather than chasing trends.
In New York, it’s challenging to find the desired Korean ingredients. Consequently, fine dining restaurants often look for similar alternatives, source ingredients with difficulty from Korea, or create innovative fusion dishes. What criteria do you use when selecting your ingredients?
I still buy key ingredients for Korean dishes directly from Korea. Small differences might not seem significant, but I believe they add up to make a big impact. My next goal is to create Korean food using locally sourced ingredients that tastes even better than what you can find in Korea.
What are the three kitchen tools that you can’t cook without?
A knife, a spoon, and a scale.
If today were the last day on Earth, what dish would you like to eat? Why that dish?
I would like to have my mother’s food. The longer I live abroad and the more experiences I have in great restaurants, the more I miss the ordinary meals made with love and care by my mother.
Photo credit: Dan Ahn