In the recent buzz surrounding Netflix’s Culinary Class Wars (Season 2), viewers were captivated not just by the high-tension battles or the dazzling techniques, but by a quiet, fundamental element that caught the eyes of true gourmets: the sauces. As chefs, including masters of temple cuisine, prepared their dishes, the camera frequently lingered on the earthenware jars and deep, dark liquids resting on their stations. It was a delight to spot the artisanal bottles of Master Ki Soon-do among the chaos of the kitchen. Beyond the rivalry of "Black" and "White" chefs, the anchor of these profound flavors is a single word: Fermentation.
Korean fermentation is a kind of alchemy that transforms three humble ingredients—soybeans, water, and salt—into Jang, a category of sauces that provides essential nutrients and a depth of flavor impossible to replicate artificially. But understand this: Korean fermentation is not merely a recipe or a preservation technique; it is a deep relationship between time, microbes, and place. Let us journey beyond the simple definition of condiments and explore this relationship through Doenjang (soybean paste), Ganjang (soybean sauce), and Gochujang (chili paste).
The Soul of the Bean: How Meju is Born
Fermentation is the process where microbes use enzymes to break down and transform ingredients, altering their taste, aroma, texture, and nutritional profile. While Western food culture relies heavily on fermenting grapes for wine or milk for cheese and yogurt, the soul of the Korean pantry lies in the soybean.
The journey begins in late autumn, typically November, when soybeans are harvested. These beans are boiled, mashed, and shaped into rectangular blocks known as Meju. For four to five weeks, these blocks are tied with rice straw ropes and hung to dry. It is during this quiet period that the magic happens: the proteins and carbohydrates in the soybeans meet naturally occurring molds from the rice straw and air, breaking down into amino acids. This transformation creates umami, that elusive, deep, and savory third taste that defines Korean cuisine.
The Diverging Paths: Salt vs. Grain
Once the Meju is dried and fermented, it becomes the parent ingredient for three distinct sauces. However, the path splits here based on how the Meju interacts with its environment. One road leads to the dual creation of soy sauce and bean paste through brine, while the other leads to the spicy complexity of chili paste through grains.
The First Path: Ganjang and Doenjang
To create the fundamental seasoning of Korean cuisine, the dried Meju is placed into Onggi. Onggi is Korea’s traditional earthenware pottery, revered for its ability to "breathe." When these jars are filled with sauces or kimchi and used for storage, they are collectively referred to as Jangdok.
In these jars, the Meju is submerged in brine along with charcoal and dried red peppers, then left to rest for approximately 40 days. After this period of waiting, the solids are separated from the liquid. The remaining solids, retaining the texture and fiber of the beans, become Doenjang, a fermented soybean paste. The dark, rich liquid, now teeming with the essence of amino acids, becomes Ganjang, or Korean soup soy sauce. It is a zero-waste process where nothing is lost. Even after separation, the fermentation continues. Doenjang develops deeper flavors over months or even up to ten years, while Ganjang is legally required to age for at least one year to develop its full aroma and color.
The Second Path: Gochujang
Unlike Doenjang and Ganjang, which rely on a few core ingredients, Gochujang allows for a much wider variety of ingredients. It involves mixing Meju powder with glutinous rice paste, malt water, and chili powder. The specific grains used can vary by artisan, and some, like Master Ki Soon-do, incorporate seasonal local ingredients like strawberry puree to aid fermentation.
The magic of Gochujang lies in the interaction between the capsaicin from the peppers and the sugars from the grain starch. Over six months to a year, the fermentation process softens the sharp heat of the chili and blends it with the natural sweetness of the grains. This laborious process is undertaken for one reason: to create a sophisticated harmony of spicy, sweet, and savory that raw chili powder alone could never achieve.
The Flavor of Fermentation
Jang and wine share a parallel existence. Just as a winemaker relies on oak barrels, a Jang artisan relies on Onggi. These clay jars have microscopic pores in their walls that allow air to flow through, facilitating the vital "breathing" process of fermentation.
However, the final flavor profile is a complex interplay of the artisan’s choices and nature. First, there is the "Hand Taste" (Son-mat)—the precise ratio of the three simple ingredients. Then comes nature’s turn. The placement of the Jangdok, the local climate, the sunlight, and the unique airborne microbes all play decisive roles.
This is the true definition of Korean fermentation: it is not about controlling nature, but trusting it. Unlike modern manufacturing which seeks uniformity, traditional fermentation accepts that the wind and sun of each season will leave a unique mark on the flavor. This harmony is why artisanal Jang possesses a depth that mass production can never replicate. Exceptionally aged Jang—sometimes kept for decades or even up to 300 years—is consumed like a rare tea, savoring the taste of time itself.
Why Fermentation Matters
In the past, Jang was never bought; it was always made at home. From rural villages to the heart of Seoul, every household had Jangdok jars fermenting in the yard or on the balcony. There is an old Korean saying: "You can judge the taste of a family’s food by tasting their Jang." Since seasoning is the foundation of cooking, a well-made Jang was the prerequisite for a delicious meal.
Beyond flavor, these fermented sauces are powerhouses of wellness. Chef Hooni Kim, the owner of Danji, often emphasizes that the true strength of Korean cuisine comes from "wild fermentation."
The potential benefits of these fermented foods are drawing attention. Doenjang contains isoflavones found in soybeans, and microorganisms like Bacillus subtilis play an important role during the traditional fermentation process. Artisanal Jang is often celebrated as "living food," valued for its enzymes and potential to support a balanced lifestyle.
From Screen to Table: A Tasting Journey
If you wish to experience the deep, resonant flavors of Korea that you’ve seen on screen, we invite you to explore the work of true masters. These are not just ingredients; they are the result of years of patience and nature’s touch.
Ki Soon-do Traditional Gochujang
The Flavor of "Culinary Class Wars" This is the very Gochujang featured in the Netflix series, crafted by Master Ki Soon-do in Damyang. It defines the foundational taste of Korean cuisine. The Master uses fermented soybean powder, sun-dried chili powder, bamboo salt cooked nine times, and handmade grain syrup (jocheong). It offers a perfect balance of spicy, savory, and sweet that only time can create.
Jookjangyeon Doenjang
1,000 Days of Waiting, Like a Vintage Wine Jookjangyeon Doenjang is naturally fermented in earthenware jars for 1,000 days. It contains nothing but Korean soybeans, Sinan sea salt aged for three years, and purified bedrock water. The process is rigorous: soybeans are grown for 200 days, made into Meju and dried, fermented for 20 days, and aged for another 60 days before finally maturing for two years. Because the climate and soil change every year, each batch has a unique "vintage," with only 1,000 jars produced annually.
Ki Soon-do Jinjang (Aged Soy Sauce)
5 Years of Patience in Red Clay Master Ki Soon-do’s Jinjang is a premium traditional soy sauce aged for over five years using only three ingredients: Korean beans, bamboo salt, and water. The Meju is tied with organic rice straw and fermented in a red clay room. This long aging process results in the darkest color and a rich profile full of umami and sweetness, with a significantly smoother, less salty finish.
In a world of fast food and instant gratification, Korean fermentation invites us to slow down. It reminds us that fermentation is not a destination, but a journey. The most exquisite flavors cannot be rushed; they must be waited for. As the winter air settles in, we invite you to explore these deep, slow flavors in your own kitchen. Whether it is a simple stew or a dipping sauce, a spoonful of time-honored Jang can transform a meal into a memory.
FAQ
Is Doenjang the same as Japanese Miso?
While they share similarities, they are distinct. Miso is typically made with soybeans mixed with rice or barley and has a shorter fermentation period, resulting in a smoother, sweeter profile. Doenjang, gochuhowever, is made purely from soybeans and salt and fermented for a longer period. This gives it a chunkier texture and a much deeper, more complex, and funkier flavor profile, making it ideal for robust stews and soups.
Are these sauces Gluten-Free or Vegan?
Traditional Doenjang and Ganjang (Soy Sauce) are typically made with only soybeans, water, and salt, making them naturally Vegan. However, Gochujang often contains glutinous rice or barley malt, and sometimes wheat, so it may not be gluten-free. Always check the specific product label to be sure.
Does Gochujang go bad?
Because it is fermented, Gochujang has a long shelf life. However, once opened, it should be refrigerated to maintain its quality and vibrant red color. Over time, it may darken, which is a natural part of the aging process and does not mean it has spoiled.
Can I eat these sauces raw, or do they need to be cooked?
You can absolutely enjoy them raw! In fact, many people enjoy them unheated to fully appreciate their fresh flavor profile and beneficial probiotics. Try dipping fresh vegetables like cucumbers or carrots into Doenjang or Gochujang, or drizzle Ganjang over a fresh salad or tofu. Cooking deepens the flavor, but raw offers a fresh, savory kick.